Eat This Immediately: The Cinnamon Bun at Harris Bakes
Waking up early on a Sunday morning for a fresh cinnamon bun at Harris Bakes (72 Bedford Street, New York, NY 10014); (212) 691-0200) has become my new weekly routine. The tiny, standing room only storefront opened in June 2020 to little fanfare from media outlets like Eater and Grub Street, but their oversight is our reward. Because in addition to home made croissants, bagels, and custom cakes, this bakery is home to New York’s best cinnamon bun.
The first thing you’ll want to know about this compact bakery on Bedford just off Commerce Street is that its storefront has that Hallmark Christmas movie feel. Some New York storefronts are absolutely perfect, the kind you don’t feel bad about at all blocking the sidewalk in front in order to take photo. This is one of them, and we wouldn’t be surprised to see it appear in a James and Karla Murray show one day. The gold leaf lettering of the bakery’s official name- separated by a rolling pin of course - plus the words “Commerce Sweet Shop” on the front door indicate this is a place that appreciates artistry. Once you step inside, you’ll smell and see a few edible works of art too.
The shop is owned by Harris Inskeep-Rosenfeld, an International Culinary Center Graduate who spent time on the Pastry Team at Gramercy Tavern before launching her own custom cake business. Because she is super talented, this business did really well, which brings us to why she now owns and operates her own bakery. With a menu that showcases both French (croissants) and New York (bagels) classics, what you really have to hope they have available is their cinnamon bun made with brown butter cream cheese frosting.
Let’s be honest: cinnamon rolls have had a rough go of it thanks to Cinnabon, Louis CK’s stand up bit about Cinnabon, and Mario Batali. But when you find a great one, there’s no better pastry to pair with your morning coffee. Harris Bakes is the perfect size to legitimately fill you up but not overdo it. It’s got perfect frosting to dough ratio, with brown butter cream cheese providing a creamy and sweet texture that balances the cinnamon nicely. Also, Harris cools the cinnamon buns upside down so it gets caramelized real nice and gooey. And at $4.50 for one bun it’s more than a fair value for a filling breakfast pastry, especially considering Dominique Ansel launched his CinnaSpun roll at $5.25 and that was definitely nowhere near as tasty as this.
We admire Harris Bakes for opening its doors (during a pandemic no less) and giving this city’s cinnamon bun scene the much needed kick in ass it needed. If you’re up for a walk through the West Village on any given weekend, Harris Bakes is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 AM to 2PM. If you’re planning to bring back cinnamon rolls or other pastries for the whole fam, large orders should be placed in advance here. Seriously, don’t be that person who walks in here and clears out the case of pastries.
Eat This Immediately profiles one delicious bite at one local business. All food is paid for by Leisurely staff out of our own pocket, and all menu items were currently available at the time of publication.